today was quite something.
We started of with my friend L. taking 3 buses and a taxi to go in the countryside, outside of Lanzhou, and climbed Xinglong Shan, a mountain covered in orange/yellow/red trees. While climbing, we met many college students (all the college students are on break for a week, xo they climb mountains... and talk to laowais). One came up to me : "can i take a photo for you?" I suspected he meant "of you" and was a bit reluctant but then thought what the hell and why not. I've become used to it. Then we talked a bit and we asked him where he studied, and he answered.... Li Gong Daxue! It's a small world...
anyway, here's Lili (Lee Lee? I really have no clue haha, he just said Lili, but was certainly not a woman so well...) and I :
It was the first time I saw the countryside and it is quite something. Crazy dry and yet many fields, corn, wheat and what not.
In the bus, many people could not sit down because it was too full, so they were standing in the alley. Once in a while, the driver would shout something (actually, the Chinese version of "police!") and all those people in the alley would kneel down for 5 minutes, as they were not supposed to be there....
Loved the mountain and apparently, we can ski there in the Winter!
And since I am a poor PCV, we went to a foot massage place called "Big Foot Ancestor" (seriously) and were seated in a room with TV and handsome Chinese men who seriously knew what they were doing....
And then, dumpling overdose, I don't remember what happened. But I have two boxes of jiaozi in my fridge, a suitcase full of mooncakes in my arms, home made mooncakes in my bag, and many photos. To be uploaded.
the fancy mooncake suitcase
The food in Lanzhou is quite unique compared to that of central China, having been influenced by ethnic groups - especially the Hui people. Besides the beef noodles, there are local delicacies that cannot be tasted in other places, as well as Sichuan cuisines, hotpot, and western food.
Gansu Cuisine
Lanzhou dishes are representative of Gansu cuisine which features the roasting, steaming, and braising of beef and mutton. Lanzhou people enjoy many tastes including salty, fresh, tart, and spicy. Gansu cuisine can be sampled at various hotels in Lanzhou. Typical dishes include Jincheng Baita, Jincheng Babao Melon Carving, Baihe Tao, and albino leeks with chicken and roasted pork.
Baihe (Lily) Tao (Peach) is so named because the dish is shaped like peaches. The washed fresh lily - a specialty of Lanzhou - is steamed for about 15 minutes. The lily is then stuffed with sweetened bean paste so that it looks like a peach. The 'peach' is braised in a bamboo steamer for about twenty minutes and then served with a white sugar sauce.
Jincheng Baita is an assortment of cold meats, imitating the famous attraction of Baita (the White Pagoda) in Lanzhou, which is a seven-story pagoda with eight facets.
Jincheng Babao (eight treasures) Melon Carving is a traditional food of Lanzhou. The carved melon peel is used as a bowl to hold white fungus, pineapple, cherry, longan, waxberry, and other delicacies. The carving is exquisite and the food is fresh and sweet. This dish will satisfy not only your palate but also your eye.
Silk Road Camel Hoof is a nutritious dish since the whole hoof is made up of tendon, which is very tasty.
Quick Fried Camel Hump, a dainty dish, has a history of 1,500 years.
Lanzhou Roasted Pork is heated over charcoal and served with spring pies or sesame pies.
Jinyu (golden fish) Facai (a kind of fungus that grows in the desert near the Yellow River) is a classic dish in Gansu Province. There is no golden fish in the dish; the name comes from the shape. The Fa Cai is soaked in water until it is soft and then kneaded until it is round. Minced chicken flavored with salt, egg white, sesame oil, and cooking wine is used to stuff the Fa Cai so it looks like a golden fish. The'fish' is steamed until it is cooked and then served in a dish surrounded with bree, giving the look of a 'golden fish swimming in water'. This popular Lanzhou dish goes well with wine.
For Lanzhou specialty-dishes, we recommend that tourists try them in the Chinese restaurants of the classic hotels because of their professional cooking style.
Local Delicacies
Lanzhou Beef Noodles (Stretched Noodles) is the most famous local dish in Lanzhou. It was first created during the reign of Emperor Guangxu (1875 - 1908), Qing Dynasty (1616 - 1911) and it is now popular all over China. This dish has five main features: clear soup, white radish, red pepper, green caraway and yellow noodles. The noodles can be wide or slim to meet different preferences. Boys like er xi (a little wider) while girls like slim ones, the middle-aged and the old like jiuyezi (leek leaf) and maoxi (slimmer) and scholars prefer slim and jiuyezi. Farmers, soldiers and workers prefer wide or even wider. If a girl or an old man asks for wider noodles or a boy asks for maoxi noodles, it would be rather strange. The noodles have gone beyond food to become a culture.
A bowl of beef noodles costs 2 Yuan and takes only a few minutes to prepare. The chef twists and stretches the dough skillfully and in less than two minutes the noodles are finished. This quick and inexpensive food is undoubtedly the first choice among the locals. There are one or two beef noodles eateries on every street in Lanzhou.
Niang pi zi cannot be missed among the local delicacies. Flour paste is steamed for 3 - 4 minutes, then cut into strips and served with mustard, garlic, sesame butter, chili oil, vinegar, and soy sauce. This is a favorite among the locals and many of the tourists.
As many Hui people live in Lanzhou, barbequed mutton, boiled mutton, and lamb with wide vermicelli are local delicacies among the various ethnic groups.
Do not forget pie with preserved ham, casserole, and fried field snails, which are good choices for you to enjoy either alone or with friends.
Fried Sheep Tail is actually made up of egg, bean paste, and starch. It is crispy with a golden top."
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Lanzhou
Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu province, has been a regional communication and transportation hub since ancient times. Lying in the central section of Gansu Province, this provincial capital received its name from the "lan" of the Gaolan Mountain Range to its south. Covering an area of 1631.6 square kilometers (629.96 square miles), Lanzhou is home to a population of 3.14 million, including Han, Hui (Muslims), Baoan, Dongxiang, Tibetan, Uighur and Sala and more.
Located in western China, Lanzhou has the distinct features of a semi-arid climate, characterized by dryness and abundant sunlight. The hottest month is July, with an average temperature of 22.2oC (71.96F), while January is the coldest, with an average temperature of 6.9oC (44.42F). It is a city without cold winter or hot summer, with an average annual temperature of 10.3oC (50.54F) and an average annual precipitation of 331mm. Travelers, hikers and tourists going to Lanzhou in the mercurial winter months are strongly advised to just bring along thick overcoats.
In ancient times, Lanzhou was called the "Gold City", due to the great amount of that precious metal that was found here. It was this discovery, along with the fact that the city was for 1,400 years a significant fortress along the Hexi Corridor--an eastern and crucial stretch of the Silk Road - that brought to the city long period of great prosperity. Today, Lanzhou is a hub of the Silk Road, with the Maiji Caves to the east, the Bingling Thousand Buddha Caves to the west, Labrang Monastery to the south and Dunhuang Mogao Caves to the north.
Lanzhou is not a major tourist spot; however, it is an important stopover in the ancient Silk Road. It boasts a number of cultural heritage sites, like the 5th-century cave shrines and stone statues at Bingling Temple (also called Thousand Buddha Caves), and a 27-meter-high Buddha at the White Pagoda Hill. Other grand sights, such as Sculptures of the Mother River, Five Springs Park, Shifogou National Forest Park, Sun Yat-sen Bridge, Waterwheel Garden, Lanshan Mountain are guaranteed to add excitement to your trip. And as the Yellow River flows from east to the west through the city, the Landscape along the Mother River should also not be missed.
Lanzhou is a bustling city with a modern downtown area, plenty of western boutiques and fast food outlets, as well as more traditional markets and temples. You will be impressed by the city's harmonious combination of the modern and the old.
The city's major industries include nonferrous metallurgy, machinery manufacturing, pharmaceuticals, and textiles. Agriculture makes up only 4 percent of Lanzhou's economy.
Lanzhou is a petrochemical base and home to Petro-China Co. Ltd.'s largest refinery in western China, which started up in the 1950s. Indeed, certain parts of the western edge of the city feel like an old, industrial town, with dusty roads and a faint chemical smell in the air. Petro-China set up Lanzhou's oil additive manufacturing facility in 1963 - the same year the city completed the nearly 2,000 km of rail that connect Lanzhou and Urumqi.
Originally in the territory of the Western Qiang peoples, Lanzhou became part of the territory of Qin in the 6th century BC.
In 81 BC, under the Han dynasty (206 BC-220 AD), it became the seat of Jincheng county (Xian) and later of Jincheng commandery (jun), the county being renamed Yunwu. The city used to be called the Golden City, and since at least the first millennium BC it was a major link on the ancient Northern Silk Road, [1] [2] and also an important historic Yellow River crossing site. To protect the city, the Great Wall of China was extended as far as Yumen.
After the fall of the Han Dynasty, Lanzhou became the capital of a succession of tribal states. Mixed with different cultural heritages, the area at present-day Gansu province, from the 5th to the 11th century, became a center for Buddhist study. In the 4th century it was briefly the capital of the independent state of Earlier Liang. The Northern Wei dynasty (386-534) reestablished Jincheng commandery, renaming the county Zicheng. Under the Sui Dynasty (581-618) the city became the seat of Lanzhou prefecture for the first time, retaining this name under the Tang Dynasty (618-907). In 763 the area was overrun by the Tibetans and was then recovered by the Tang in 843. Later it fell into the hands of the Western Xia Dynasty (which flourished in Qinghai from the 11th to 13th century) and was subsequently recovered by the Song Dynasty (960-1126) in 1041. The name Lanzhou was reestablished, and the county renamed Lanzhuan.
After 1127 it fell into the hands of the Jin Dynasty, and after 1235 it came into the possession of the Mongols.
Under the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) the prefecture was demoted to a county and placed under the administration of Lintao superior prefecture, but in 1477 Lanzhou was reestablished as a political unit.
The city acquired its current name in 1656, during the Qing Dynasty. When Gansu became a separate province in 1666, Lanzhou became its capital.
In 1739 the seat of Lintao was transferred to Lanzhou, which was later made a superior prefecture called Lanzhou.
Lanzhou was badly damaged during the rising of the Gansu Muslims in 1864-1875. In the 1920s and 1930s it became a center of Soviet influence in northwestern China. During the Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945) Lanzhou, linked with Xi'an by highway in 1935, became the terminus of the 3,200 km (2,000 mile) Chinese-Soviet highway, used as a route for Soviet supplies destined for the Xi'an area. This highway remained the primary traffic route of northwestern China until the completion of the railway from Lanzhou to Urumqi, Xinjiang. During the war Lanzhou was heavily bombed by the Japanese."
First week over, a good load of both frustrations and satisfactions already. Amazing food too. I think, actually, that I much prefer Lanzhou de cai to Chengdu de cai. Here they mix fruits and vegetables and everything is not so oily and spicy that it instantly kills you « papilles gustatives » (yes, that’s why I’m an English teacher. Because I have no idea of how to say papilles gustatives. I’m guessing tasting buds but I’m not sure)
I felt like I had NO control of my time whatsoever.
But the other day I went with a couple of students to the coolest DVD store ever, with hundreds of Western (and by western I mean from the US, France, Italy, Germany, everything) DVDs for 9kuai. I bought most of the dvds I wanted for my film class, and I have to go back because they were out of « Into the wild » and « Rear Window ».
I thought a lot about this and decided that I wanted to show films that my students haven’t seen yet, not blockbusters they saw hundreds of times, both in English in English video class and dubbed in Chinese on TV. So no Princess Diary or the Lion King. Maybe I’m stubborn, maybe they’ll be bored, maybe they’ll hate me, maybe they’ll be shocked (i already talked about this but, it happened a second time : trying to explain who Sean Penn was, I told my two students that he played the part of the first homosexual man elected as Governor in the US in « Milk », and at the sheer sound of the word « homosexual » they giggled and looked at me as if I had just murdered someone with chopsticks in front of a kid. And I won’t give up on that so there is a looooong way to go in opening them to « different » things and cultures), but also maybe they’ll be like « wow, this is so cool ! ». We shall see. I’m bullet proof, I don’t care. But in the end, I am pretty much freaking excited about that film class.
Today I grabbed my camera, finally, and walked up a hill behind the campus. Dirt road, mud on my flip flops (I’m American so yeah, I wear flip flops), children waving « hello » and giggling for a photo, old wrinkled ageless man pushing his bike, I might seriously improve my inexistant portraiture skills here. So just for that I’m pretty excited. I’ll post on flickr soon.
So I walked up that hill, met some muslim workers who live on the construction site, answered pretty much every question by « I live at LUT, I’m a French and English Teacher, I will stay here two years » regardless of wether I got it or not because that’s about all I can say anyway.
Patience is virtue.
Then I fell on this temple lost in the mountain, with beautiful colorful paintings and fresques outside, a big red door, closed. I walked around it and when I got back to the door, previously closed, a man with smiling eyes was standing by the door and invited me in (after my usual « My name is Wen Man Sha, I live at LUT, I’m a French and English Teacher, I will stay here two years » introduction). Outside, it was all construction noises and dust. Inside that temple, or pagoda, or whatever you want to call it, in was so quiet and peaceful and beautiful. I am usually the first one to make fun of you if you speak about deep spiritual experience, but seriously, that was close to it. This man (I guess he’s a monk, or a guardian of the temple, but he didn’t have the dress) let me by myself exploring and admiring the courtyard and the colorful decoration, the giant bell, and then came back and invited me in his bare room, told me to sit down on his chair, offered me hot tea, and we watched TV with satellite in a room with no running water. After a while, he asked me if I had eaten, and took me to another room and offered me bread and fruits, and even wanted me to take a bunch of these little breads in my bag for later. I also showed off and use three more words (pointing at apples, peanuts and peaches… yay ! But I didn’t know how to say plums haha) Back in front of the little tv, we sat there silently for 20 peaceful minutes and then he walked me back to the main gate and I went back to the outer world.
Also discussed with a cactus lady and brought two of her babies back home (cactii, not actual babies).
I keep being invited for feasts, by my counterpart, her friends, my friends, everyone wants me to meet their family, I pose and pose and pose, face shining with sweat but toothpaste smile. I sort of expected to lose weight but I can forget it. It's too good to pass. Fresh vegetables and fruits, amazing sweet and sour pork, I also find myself accepting any challenge to try weird food (blood jelly thing today): stupid pride mechanism I think.
My washing machine moves alone and looks like Transformers. It’s kinda scary.
Much love to you all,
Ok so a lot has happened since I last wrote.
I missed Chun Chun’ dad’s 70th Birthday because I was in bed with a fever for 40 hours in a row (I fell asleep to the sounds of « gambei ! » = bottoms up), woke up for one glorious family picture (see below, I look bright and fresh, I know)
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